Carbon Media Replacement: When Your Whole-House Filter Stops Working
By Jared Beviano | Water Wizards Filtration
I was at a house in Boynton Beach a few weeks ago—nice family, two kids, they'd had their whole-house carbon filter for about six years. The wife called because she'd noticed the water starting to taste "off." Not terrible, she said, just... different. Like it used to taste better and now it doesn't.
"It's probably nothing," she told me on the phone. "Maybe I'm imagining it."
She wasn't imagining it.
When I tested the water coming out of their kitchen tap, chlorine was at 2.8 ppm. For context, their municipal supply runs about 3.2 ppm. That carbon filter—the one they'd paid good money for six years ago specifically to remove chlorine—was removing less than 15% of it. Basically doing nothing.
The system looked fine from the outside. No leaks, no error codes, no obvious problems. The tank was still there, still plumbed in, still had water flowing through it. But the carbon inside? Exhausted. Used up. Done.
Here's the thing that gets me: they'd been drinking and showering in essentially unfiltered water for probably six months to a year, thinking they were protected. The filter didn't send them a notification. It didn't turn red or make a noise. It just quietly stopped working while they kept trusting it.
This happens constantly. And it's why I want to explain what carbon media actually does, why it stops working, and how to know when yours needs replacement.
How Carbon Filtration Actually Works (The Simple Version)
Let me give you the non-chemistry-degree explanation of what's happening inside that tank in your garage.
Activated carbon is basically charcoal that's been treated to create millions of tiny pores—microscopic holes that dramatically increase its surface area. A single gram of activated carbon has a surface area of about 3,000 square meters. That's roughly half a football field of surface area in something smaller than your fingernail.
When water passes through this carbon, contaminants stick to those surfaces through a process called adsorption (not absorption—adsorption, with a 'd'). Chlorine molecules, organic compounds, pesticides, herbicides, volatile organic compounds—they all bond to the carbon surface and stay there while clean water passes through.
Think of it like a sponge, except instead of soaking up water, it's soaking up the stuff you don't want in your water.
The Problem: Carbon Fills Up
Here's the issue. Those millions of pores? They're not infinite. Every time your carbon filter removes chlorine or chemicals from your water, some of those pore surfaces get occupied. Over time—months and years of continuous use—more and more of the surface area gets filled up with the contaminants it's captured.
Eventually, there's nowhere left for new contaminants to stick. Water flows through the carbon, but the chlorine and chemicals flow right through with it. The carbon is "exhausted" or "spent."
It doesn't break. It doesn't leak. It just stops working.
And unlike a sediment filter that gets visibly dirty or causes pressure drop when it's clogged, exhausted carbon gives you almost no warning. The water keeps flowing at normal pressure. Everything looks fine. You just gradually stop getting the filtration you're paying for.
Why South Florida Burns Through Carbon Faster
If you read the manufacturer specs on most whole-house carbon filters, they'll tell you the media lasts 3-5 years or some number of gallons—often 500,000 to 1,000,000 gallons. Those numbers aren't wrong exactly, but they're based on average conditions.
South Florida doesn't have average conditions.
Aggressive Chlorination
Our water utilities use more chlorine than most of the country. We have to—warm temperatures and long pipe runs create ideal conditions for bacterial growth. What keeps our water safe also means our carbon filters work harder.
Most municipalities in Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade run chlorine levels between 2.5-4.0 ppm. Some areas, especially at the ends of distribution lines or during summer months, see spikes above 4.0 ppm. Compare that to northern states where 1.0-2.0 ppm is common.
More chlorine in the water means more chlorine for your carbon to remove. Your filter is processing higher contaminant loads than it was designed for.
Chloramines Are Harder to Remove
Here's the bigger issue: most South Florida utilities have switched from straight chlorine to chloramines (chlorine bonded with ammonia). Chloramines are more stable, which means they last longer in the distribution system and provide better disinfection at the far ends of the pipes.
But chloramines are also harder to remove. Standard activated carbon removes chlorine quickly and efficiently. Chloramines? They need more contact time with the carbon, or they need specialized catalytic carbon that's designed for chloramine removal.
If your whole-house filter uses standard activated carbon and your utility uses chloramines—which is most of South Florida at this point—your carbon is working overtime and exhausting faster than the manufacturer estimated.
Year-Round Usage
In northern states, water usage drops significantly in winter. People aren't watering lawns, filling pools, or taking extra showers after sweating all day. The carbon filter gets a break.
In South Florida, it's summer nine months a year. We use more water, more consistently, than most of the country. Your carbon filter never gets a slow season.
Higher Organic Content
Florida's water comes from the Biscayne Aquifer, which sits in porous limestone surrounded by organic-rich soil. Our source water has higher natural organic content than many regions. These organics also get captured by carbon, using up capacity that would otherwise go toward chlorine removal.
The Bottom Line on Lifespan
That 500,000-gallon carbon filter? In South Florida conditions, it might effectively last 300,000-400,000 gallons. That "5-year media" might be genuinely effective for 3-4 years.
I'm not saying the manufacturers are lying. I'm saying their estimates assume average conditions, and we don't have average conditions. Planning for earlier replacement is just being realistic about our environment.
Signs Your Carbon Media Needs Replacement
Here's what to watch for. These signs often appear gradually, which is why people miss them.
The Chlorine Taste Returns
This is the most obvious sign, but it's also the most commonly dismissed. People convince themselves they're imagining it, or that the city must be adding more chlorine, or that it's just a temporary thing.
If water that used to taste clean and neutral now has a pool-water taste or smell, your carbon is probably exhausted. The chlorine isn't new—it was always there. Your filter just isn't removing it anymore.
Trust your taste buds. They're more sensitive than most test equipment for detecting chlorine at low levels.
The Chlorine Smell in Showers
A lot of people don't drink their tap water—they have an RO system or buy bottled water for drinking. So they don't notice the taste change.
But they notice the shower.
When carbon stops removing chlorine, your shower becomes a chlorine exposure chamber. Hot water releases chlorine as a gas, which you breathe in. Your bathroom smells like a pool. Your skin feels dry. Your hair gets that stripped, straw-like quality.
If your showers used to feel great and now feel harsh, check your carbon.
Your Test Results Change
If you're the type who actually tests their water (and you should be), compare current results to when your system was new or recently serviced.
Chlorine that was 0.0-0.2 ppm and is now 1.5+ ppm? Carbon's done. TDS that's crept up significantly? Could indicate carbon exhaustion plus other issues.
Testing before and after the carbon tank tells you exactly what's happening. If the "after" readings are approaching the "before" readings, your media isn't doing its job.
Time-Based Warning Signs
Even without noticeable taste or smell changes, be suspicious of carbon media that's been in service for:
4+ years in a typical South Florida home
3+ years in a high-usage household (large family, irrigation tied to house water, etc.)
3+ years in areas with very high chlorine or chloramine levels
Some media lasts longer. Some fails sooner. But these timeframes should trigger at least a water test to verify your system is still performing.
Downstream Equipment Problems
Here's one people don't connect: problems with equipment downstream of your carbon filter can indicate carbon exhaustion.
If your water softener resin is degrading faster than expected, it might be because chlorine is getting through the carbon and attacking the resin. Chlorine destroys softener resin over time—that's one reason we put carbon filters before softeners.
If your RO membrane is failing prematurely, same thing. Chlorine and chloramines damage RO membranes. The carbon pre-filter is supposed to remove them before water reaches the RO.
When the carbon stops working, everything downstream suffers.
Carbon Cartridge Replacement vs. Media Rebed
When we talk about "replacing carbon," there are actually two different things we might mean, depending on what type of system you have.
Cartridge-Based Systems
Some whole-house carbon filters use large replaceable cartridges—typically 10-inch or 20-inch "big blue" housings with a carbon block or granular carbon cartridge inside.
For these systems, "replacing the carbon" means swapping the entire cartridge. It's relatively simple:
Shut off water and relieve pressure
Unscrew the housing
Remove the old cartridge
Insert the new cartridge
Reassemble and flush
Cartridge replacement is something handy homeowners can do themselves, though we're happy to do it as part of maintenance service. Cartridges typically cost $50-150 depending on size and quality, and replacement is recommended every 6-12 months for most South Florida homes.
The downside of cartridge systems: ongoing cartridge costs add up, and the smaller carbon volume means more frequent replacement.
Tank-Based Systems (Media Rebed)
Larger whole-house systems use a tank filled with loose granular activated carbon (GAC) or catalytic carbon. These systems hold much more carbon—typically 1-2 cubic feet—and last much longer between service.
For tank-based systems, "replacing the carbon" means a "media rebed" or "media replacement." This is a more involved process:
Bypass the system
Disconnect the tank
Remove the control valve head
Dump out all the old carbon (it's heavy and messy)
Inspect the tank interior and distribution components
Refill with fresh carbon media
Reassemble and test
Media rebed is definitely not a DIY job. It requires proper disposal of the old media, knowledge of how much and what type of media to use, and the ability to properly reassemble a system that's under pressure.
A professional rebed typically costs $300-600 depending on tank size and media type. That might sound like a lot, but consider: a quality tank-based system with a rebed every 4-5 years costs less over 10 years than a cartridge system with replacements every 6-12 months.
Types of Carbon Media: Not All Carbon Is Equal
When it's time for media replacement, you have choices. The type of carbon matters, especially in South Florida.
Standard Activated Carbon (GAC)
Granular activated carbon, usually made from coconut shells, is the most common and economical choice. It's excellent at removing:
Free chlorine (95-99% removal)
Taste and odor compounds
Many organic chemicals
Some pesticides and herbicides
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)
It's less effective at removing:
Chloramines (40-70% removal with standard contact time)
Heavy metals
Nitrates
Fluoride
Bacteria
For homes on municipal water with straight chlorine disinfection, standard GAC works well. But increasingly, South Florida utilities are using chloramines, which brings us to...
Catalytic Carbon
Catalytic carbon is activated carbon that's been modified to enhance its ability to break down chloramines. The catalytic surface promotes a chemical reaction that converts chloramines into harmless compounds, rather than just adsorbing them.
If your utility uses chloramines (and most in Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade do), catalytic carbon is worth the upgrade. It removes:
Chloramines (90-99% removal)
Free chlorine (95-99% removal)
Hydrogen sulfide (the rotten egg smell in some well water)
All the same organics and chemicals as standard GAC
Catalytic carbon costs more—roughly 50-75% more than standard GAC—but it performs dramatically better for chloramine removal. In a chloramine-treated system, standard carbon might need replacement in 2-3 years while catalytic carbon might last 4-5 years because it's actually designed for the job.
Carbon Block vs. Granular
Carbon block is compressed carbon that water flows through, rather than loose granules that water flows around. Blocks generally provide better filtration because there are no channels for water to bypass the carbon.
However, carbon blocks are only practical in cartridge systems. Tank-based systems use granular media.
For tank systems, the granular media is sometimes mixed with other filtration materials—like KDF (for heavy metals and bacteria inhibition) or fine garnet (for sediment polishing). These blended media address multiple contaminants in a single tank.
What I Recommend for South Florida
For most of my customers on municipal water, I recommend catalytic carbon for tank-based systems. Yes, it costs more upfront. But it actually removes the chloramines in your water, lasts longer because it's designed for the job, and protects downstream equipment (softener resin, RO membranes) from chloramine damage.
For customers on a tight budget, standard GAC still provides significant improvement over unfiltered water. Just be aware that chloramine removal will be incomplete and media life might be shorter.
For well water without chlorine concerns, standard GAC is often fine—your carbon is targeting organics, odors, and taste rather than disinfectants.
The Rebed Process: What Actually Happens
Let me walk you through what a professional carbon media rebed looks like, so you know what you're paying for.
Assessment and Preparation
We start by testing your current water quality—both before and after the carbon tank. This tells us how badly the media has degraded and confirms that replacement is actually needed. Sometimes what seems like carbon exhaustion is actually a different problem (bypass valve left open, channeling in the media bed, etc.).
We also check the condition of your tank and control valve. If the tank is corroded internally or the valve is failing, we need to address those issues—just dumping new media into a compromised tank is throwing money away.
System Bypass
The carbon tank gets bypassed so you have water to the house during the service. This is why bypass valves matter—without them, you'd be without water for 2-3 hours.
Media Removal
This is the messy part. We disconnect the control valve head from the tank and remove the riser tube (the internal pipe that distributes water through the media).
Then we have to get the old carbon out. For a typical 10x54 tank with 1.5 cubic feet of carbon, that's about 75 pounds of wet, dirty media. We either vacuum it out with a specialized wet/dry vac or carefully dump and funnel it into disposal containers.
The old media goes into heavy-duty bags and gets disposed of properly. Carbon isn't hazardous waste, but you can't just dump 75 pounds of it in your regular garbage.
Tank Inspection
With the tank empty, we inspect the interior for corrosion, cracks, or damage. We check the distributor at the bottom (the component that keeps media from escaping into your plumbing) and the riser tube for damage or blockage.
If anything needs replacement, now is the time. It's much better to discover a cracked distributor during a planned rebed than during a midnight emergency when carbon starts flowing out your faucets.
Media Loading
Fresh carbon goes in. We measure carefully—too little media reduces filtration effectiveness, too much can cause pressure problems.
For a standard tank, we add a layer of gravel at the bottom (supports the media and improves distribution), then the carbon media itself, with appropriate freeboard space at the top for expansion during backwash.
If we're using blended media (carbon plus KDF, for example), the layering order matters and we follow manufacturer specifications.
Reassembly and Testing
Control valve goes back on. We check all connections and O-rings—old O-rings often get replaced during rebed service since we've got everything apart anyway.
Then we run water through the system to settle the media, check for leaks, and purge any carbon fines (dust from the new media). The first water through a fresh carbon tank is usually gray or black—that's normal and clears within a few minutes.
Finally, we test the water coming out of the system to verify performance. Chlorine should be at or near zero. If it's not, something's wrong and we troubleshoot before leaving.
Time and Cost
A complete carbon rebed typically takes 1.5-2.5 hours depending on tank size, accessibility, and whether any components need replacement.
Cost ranges from $300-600 for most residential systems. That breaks down roughly as:
Media: $100-250 (depending on type and quantity)
Labor: $150-250
Miscellaneous (O-rings, disposal, etc.): $30-50
Service call: included or $50-100
Premium catalytic carbon runs toward the higher end of media costs. Larger tanks obviously need more media. Systems in difficult locations (crawl spaces, tight utility closets) may take longer and cost more in labor.
How Often Should You Replace Carbon Media?
The honest answer is: it depends. But here are guidelines based on South Florida conditions.
For Municipal Water (Chlorine)
Standard GAC: Every 3-4 years
Catalytic carbon: Every 4-5 years
For Municipal Water (Chloramines)
Standard GAC: Every 2-3 years (and you'll have incomplete removal)
Catalytic carbon: Every 3-5 years
For Well Water
Standard GAC: Every 4-6 years (lower chlorine load, but organics and sulfur still deplete the carbon)
High-Usage Households
Subtract 1 year from the above estimates if you have:
Family of 5+
High water usage (frequent guests, home-based laundry business, etc.)
Irrigation connected to house water that passes through filtration
Factors That Extend Life
Lower-than-average chlorine in your municipal supply
Smaller household
Snowbird schedule (system not used year-round)
Pre-filtration that removes sediment before it reaches the carbon
The Best Answer: Test Annually
Rather than guessing based on time, test your water annually after the first 2-3 years. When chlorine removal drops below 80-85% of initial performance, it's time to plan for rebed. When it drops below 50%, you've waited too long.
We offer annual water testing as part of our maintenance service, or you can use home test strips (less accurate but better than nothing) to monitor chlorine levels over time.
Can You Extend Carbon Life?
Some homeowners try to extend their carbon media's life. Here's what works and what doesn't.
What Works
Backwashing regularly. Tank-based carbon systems with backwashing control valves should backwash weekly or bi-weekly. Backwashing flushes sediment out of the media bed and re-stratifies the carbon, preventing channeling (when water finds shortcuts through the media instead of contacting all of it). Proper backwashing can extend media life 10-20%.
Pre-filtering sediment. A sediment filter before the carbon tank keeps dirt, rust, and particles from clogging the carbon surface. Carbon is for chemical removal—making it also handle sediment wastes capacity and shortens life.
Fixing pressure spikes. Pressure surges can damage media beds and compact carbon, reducing effectiveness. If you don't have a pressure regulator, adding one protects your carbon filter (and all your other equipment and plumbing).
What Doesn't Work
Running the system less. Your carbon doesn't regenerate when not in use. If it's exhausted, it's exhausted—letting it sit won't restore capacity.
"Recharging" carbon. Some people ask about reactivating exhausted carbon. Industrial facilities can do this with specialized high-temperature equipment. You cannot do it at home. Anyone selling "carbon recharging service" for residential systems is either confused or scamming you.
Adding more carbon on top. Dumping a bag of fresh carbon into an exhausted tank doesn't work. Water takes the path of least resistance—it flows through the exhausted media because that's where the channels are. You need to remove the old and replace with fresh.
When to Just Replace
If your carbon is exhausted, replace it. Don't try to nurse another six months out of media that's done. You're drinking chlorine and damaging downstream equipment while pretending you still have filtration.
The cost difference between replacing at 4 years versus 4.5 years is minimal. The cost of resin damage to your softener because you pushed the carbon too far? That's $300-400 you didn't need to spend.
DIY vs. Professional Rebed: An Honest Assessment
Can you rebed a carbon tank yourself? Technically, yes. Should you? That depends.
The Case for DIY
If you're mechanically inclined, comfortable with plumbing, and have a few specific tools, DIY rebed can save $150-250 in labor costs.
You'll need:
The ability to lift and maneuver a 60-80 pound tank
A way to dispose of 50-80 pounds of spent media
A wet/dry vacuum (helpful for removing old media)
Basic plumbing tools
The correct type and amount of replacement media
Patience and willingness to troubleshoot if something goes wrong
Media itself costs $100-200 from online suppliers or specialty water treatment distributors. If you're confident in your abilities, DIY is feasible.
The Case for Professional Service
Most of my customers choose professional rebed, and here's why:
It's heavy and messy. Tank-based systems are unwieldy. Wet carbon is heavy. Old media gets everywhere if you're not careful. Most people don't want to deal with it.
Media selection matters. Choosing the wrong media type, wrong quantity, or wrong layering can result in poor performance or equipment damage. Professionals know what your system needs.
We spot other problems. During rebed service, we inspect tanks, valves, distributors, O-rings, and the overall system. We catch developing issues before they become emergencies. A DIYer focused on just getting media in and out might miss a cracked distributor or corroding tank.
It's guaranteed. If we do the rebed and your chlorine removal is still poor, we troubleshoot and fix it. If you DIY and something goes wrong, you're starting over or calling us anyway.
Your time has value. A professional rebed takes 1.5-2.5 hours. A DIYer doing it for the first time might spend 4-6 hours including research, sourcing materials, trial and error, and cleanup. Is saving $150 worth 4+ hours of your weekend?
My Recommendation
For cartridge-based systems (big blue housings with replaceable cartridges), DIY is reasonable. The cartridges are designed for homeowner replacement. It's quick and doesn't require disassembling tanks.
For tank-based systems, I'd recommend professional service for most homeowners. The labor cost is modest relative to the value of proper media selection, professional inspection, and guaranteed results.
The exception: if you've done it before, have the tools and setup, and know exactly what you're doing, DIY can work fine. But the first time? Let a professional handle it and learn from watching if you want to DIY next time.
What About Replacing the Whole System?
Sometimes during a rebed assessment, we discover issues that make replacement more sensible than repair.
When to Rebed
Tank is in good condition (no corrosion, no cracks)
Control valve is functioning properly
System is correctly sized for your home
You're happy with the system's features and performance
In these cases, rebed makes perfect sense. You're keeping a working system working.
When to Consider Replacement
The tank is compromised. Internal corrosion, cracks, or damage means the tank could fail. Putting $400 of media into a tank that might leak next year doesn't make sense.
The valve is failing. Control valve rebuilds run $200-400. If your valve is at end of life AND you need a rebed, total repair cost approaches replacement cost. New system might be smarter.
The system is undersized. Maybe you've added bathrooms, increased family size, or your water usage has grown. A system that was adequate 10 years ago might be undersized now. Replacement with a properly sized system is better than rebedding an inadequate one.
Technology has improved. Systems from 15-20 years ago don't have features available today—better valve programming, smarter backwash schedules, improved media options. If you're rebedding an antique, consider whether a modern system might serve you better.
You want different capabilities. Maybe your original system is standard carbon but you've learned your utility uses chloramines and you want catalytic carbon. Maybe you want to add UV or combine filtration with softening. System changes beyond simple rebed might point toward replacement.
The Math
A professional rebed runs $300-600. A new whole-house carbon system runs $1,200-2,500 installed.
If your existing system is in good shape and meets your needs, rebed is clearly the economical choice. If multiple components need replacement and the system is 12-15+ years old, new might make more sense.
We're honest about this assessment. I'd rather do a $400 rebed on a system that warrants it than pressure someone into a $2,000 replacement they don't need. But I'd also rather recommend replacement when that's genuinely the better long-term investment.
Scheduling Your Carbon Media Service
If you've read this far and you're thinking about your own system, here's how to proceed.
If You Don't Know Your Media Status
Start with testing. We can test your water before and after your carbon filter and tell you exactly how much removal you're getting. If chlorine reduction is still strong, your media has life left. If removal has dropped significantly, it's time to plan for rebed.
If Your System Is Due
Typical lead time for rebed service is 3-7 days—we need to have the correct media in stock or ordered. Don't wait until you're desperate; schedule when you know it's needed rather than when your water tastes like a pool.
If You're On a Maintenance Schedule
The easiest approach: let us track it for you. Our maintenance customers get annual testing and reminders when rebed is approaching. You don't have to remember anything.
If You Have Questions
Call and ask. We're happy to discuss your specific system, your water quality, and whether rebed, other maintenance, or system changes make sense for your situation. No charge for the conversation.
The Bottom Line on Carbon Media
Your whole-house carbon filter is probably the hardest-working component of your water treatment system. It processes every gallon that enters your house, protecting you from chlorine, chemicals, and taste/odor compounds that would otherwise be in every glass of water, every shower, every load of laundry.
But carbon doesn't last forever. In South Florida's demanding conditions—high chlorine, chloramines, year-round usage—media exhaustion is inevitable. The question isn't whether you'll need replacement, but when.
The family in Boynton Beach I mentioned at the beginning? They got a catalytic carbon rebed and their water immediately went from 2.8 ppm chlorine to 0.1 ppm. The wife called me a week later to say she'd forgotten how good water could taste.
"I didn't realize how bad it had gotten," she said. "It happened so gradually."
That's the tricky thing about carbon exhaustion. It's gradual. You adapt without noticing. And then suddenly you remember what your water is supposed to taste like, and you wonder why you waited so long.
Don't wait until it's obvious. Test your water. Know what your carbon is doing. And when it's time, replace it.
Your water—and your family—will thank you.
Ready to check your carbon media status?
Call Water Wizards at 561-352-9989 or visit waterwizards.ai to schedule water testing or carbon rebed service.
Water Wizards Filtration — Florida's Water Filtration Experts
Serving Delray Beach, Boca Raton, West Palm Beach, Jupiter, Wellington, Boynton Beach, Fort Lauderdale, and all of Palm Beach and Broward counties.
Frequently Asked Questions: Carbon Media Replacement
How do I know if my whole-house carbon filter needs new media?
The most reliable indicator is water testing—compare chlorine levels before and after your carbon tank. If post-filter chlorine is more than 20-25% of pre-filter levels, your carbon is significantly exhausted. Practical signs include returning chlorine taste in drinking water, chlorine smell during showers, dry skin and hair after bathing, and downstream equipment problems (softener resin degrading faster than expected, RO membrane failing prematurely). In South Florida, carbon media typically lasts 3-5 years depending on type, water quality, and usage. If your system is 4+ years old and you haven't tested recently, schedule testing before problems become obvious.
How much does carbon media replacement cost in South Florida?
Professional carbon media rebed typically costs $300-600 for residential whole-house systems in Palm Beach and Broward counties. This includes media ($100-250 depending on type and quantity), labor ($150-250), and miscellaneous items like O-rings and disposal. Catalytic carbon—recommended for South Florida's chloramine-treated water—costs more than standard activated carbon but provides better performance and longer life. Tank size affects cost: a 10x54 tank holding 1.5 cubic feet of media costs less than a 13x54 tank with 2.5 cubic feet. Cartridge-based systems are different—replacement cartridges run $50-150 each and are typically changed every 6-12 months.
What's the difference between catalytic carbon and regular activated carbon?
Standard activated carbon (GAC) effectively removes free chlorine (95-99%), taste and odor compounds, and many organic chemicals through adsorption. It's less effective against chloramines—the disinfectant most South Florida utilities now use—achieving only 40-70% removal. Catalytic carbon is modified activated carbon that promotes a chemical reaction to break down chloramines, achieving 90-99% chloramine removal. Catalytic carbon costs about 50-75% more than standard GAC but performs dramatically better in chloramine-treated water and typically lasts longer because it's designed for the actual contaminants in your water. For most Palm Beach and Broward County homes, catalytic carbon is the better investment.
Can I replace carbon media myself, or do I need professional service?
For cartridge-based systems (big blue housings), DIY replacement is straightforward—shut off water, unscrew housing, swap cartridges, reassemble. Most handy homeowners can handle this. For tank-based systems requiring media rebed, professional service is recommended. The process involves removing 50-80 pounds of wet media, inspecting internal components, selecting and loading correct media type and quantity, and proper reassembly. Mistakes can result in poor filtration, media escaping into plumbing, or equipment damage. Professional rebed costs $150-250 more than DIY materials alone, but includes proper media selection, tank inspection, disposal, guaranteed results, and identification of other developing problems during service.
How often should whole-house carbon media be replaced in South Florida?
In South Florida conditions—high chlorine, chloramines, year-round usage—expect shorter media life than manufacturer estimates based on national averages. General guidelines: catalytic carbon in municipal water with chloramines lasts 3-5 years; standard activated carbon in municipal water lasts 2-4 years; standard carbon in well water without chlorine treatment lasts 4-6 years. High-usage households (large families, irrigation on house water) should reduce these estimates by 1 year. Rather than relying solely on time, test water annually after year 2-3. When chlorine removal drops below 80% of original performance, plan for rebed. Testing removes guesswork and catches exhaustion before water quality suffers significantly.
What happens if I don't replace exhausted carbon media?
Exhausted carbon provides progressively less filtration until it's essentially doing nothing. Immediate effects include chlorine taste and smell returning to your water. Longer-term consequences include chlorine/chloramine damage to downstream equipment—softener resin degrades faster (leading to $300-400 resin replacement), RO membranes fail prematurely (replacement membranes cost $80-150), and other filtration components work harder. You also lose protection against chemicals, pesticides, and organic compounds the carbon was removing. Essentially, you're paying for and maintaining a filtration system that isn't filtering. The family that waits "just a few more months" often ends up with additional equipment repairs that cost more than timely rebed would have.
Will a carbon rebed fix my water pressure problems?
It depends on the cause. If pressure problems result from a severely clogged sediment pre-filter (common), replacing that filter fixes it—rebed isn't needed. If pressure dropped because carbon media is compacted, channeled, or contaminated with sediment, rebed can restore normal flow. However, carbon exhaustion itself typically doesn't cause pressure problems—exhausted carbon just stops removing contaminants while water flows normally. During rebed service, we assess whether media condition is actually causing your pressure issues. Sometimes pressure problems indicate other issues: failing pressure regulator, municipal supply problems, or undersized equipment for current household demand. Proper diagnosis before service prevents paying for work that won't solve your actual problem.
Should I replace my whole carbon filter system or just rebed the existing tank?
Rebed makes sense when your tank is structurally sound, control valve functions properly, system is adequately sized, and you're satisfied with its capabilities—you're keeping good equipment working. Consider replacement when the tank shows internal corrosion or damage, control valve is failing (rebuilds cost $200-400), system is undersized for current household needs, or you want capabilities your current system lacks (like upgrading from standard to catalytic carbon requiring different tank configuration). The math: rebed costs $300-600, new system costs $1,200-2,500. If multiple components need work and equipment is 12-15+ years old, replacement often provides better long-term value. We assess honestly and recommend based on your specific situation—there's no benefit to us in overselling replacement when rebed serves you better.
