The Complete Water Filtration FAQ: Troubleshooting, Repairs, and Replacements
By Jared Beviano, Owner of Water Wizards Filtration | January 2025
After twelve years of servicing water treatment systems across South Florida, I've heard just about every question imaginable. Some come up weekly — "Why does my RO faucet drip?" is practically a daily conversation. Others are rarer but more interesting, like the customer in Palm Beach Gardens who wanted to know if his water softener could be causing his tomato plants to die (spoiler: yes, sodium in softened water isn't great for gardens).
This FAQ covers everything I get asked about water filtration systems — from basic maintenance questions to complex troubleshooting. I've organized it by system type because that's usually how people think about their equipment. Whether you're dealing with a whole house filter, an under-sink RO system, a water softener, or UV sterilization, you'll find answers here.
Some of these answers will help you fix things yourself. Others will help you understand what's happening so you can have an informed conversation with your technician. And a few will hopefully save you from making expensive mistakes I've seen other homeowners make.
WHOLE HOUSE FILTER SYSTEMS
How often should I change my whole house filter cartridges?
The honest answer is: it depends. Manufacturer recommendations are starting points, not gospel. In South Florida, our water conditions are tough — high sediment in well water, aggressive chlorine levels in municipal supplies, iron that varies seasonally. Here's what I actually see in the field:
Sediment pre-filters (5-20 micron): Every 3-6 months on city water, potentially every 4-8 weeks on high-sediment well water. During rainy season, wells can stir up more particulates, so you might need to change more frequently from June through October. Watch your pressure gauge — a 5-7 PSI drop from clean baseline means it's time.
Carbon block filters: Every 6-9 months on average use. Carbon exhausts chemically before it clogs physically, so the filter might look fine while no longer removing chlorine or chemicals. If you notice chlorine taste returning to your water, the carbon is exhausted regardless of what it looks like.
Specialty filters (iron, manganese, arsenic): These vary wildly by water chemistry. I've seen iron filters need replacement monthly in severe well water situations, while the same filter lasts six months on moderate iron levels. Testing your water regularly is the only way to know.
Tank-based media systems (SpringWell, Pelican, Aquasana): The pre-filter cartridge needs changing every 3-6 months. The main tank media typically lasts 5-10 years depending on the system and water quality.
My water pressure dropped after installing a whole house filter. Is that normal?
Some pressure drop is expected — water has to pass through filter media, which creates resistance. A clean filter should cause no more than 3-5 PSI drop. If you're seeing more than that, check several things:
The filter might be undersized for your flow rate. A 10" x 2.5" housing is fine for a small apartment, but a house with three bathrooms needs 20" x 4.5" (Big Blue) housings or multiple housings in parallel. I see this undersizing mistake constantly with DIY installations.
The filter micron rating might be too fine for your water. Starting with a 1-micron filter on sediment-heavy well water is asking for trouble. Use a dual-gradient filter (like the Pentek DGD-5005) that catches larger particles on the outside and finer particles toward the center, or install a coarser pre-filter upstream.
Air trapped in the system after filter changes can cause temporary pressure issues. Open the pressure relief button on top of the housing (if equipped) and let air escape, or simply run water through the system for a few minutes.
Why is my filter housing leaking?
Nine times out of ten, it's an O-ring issue. The rubber seal between the housing sump and cap wears out, gets pinched during installation, or dries out and loses flexibility.
The fix: Remove the housing, inspect the O-ring for cracks, flat spots, or visible damage. Even if it looks okay, clean it thoroughly and apply food-grade silicone lubricant (Dow Corning Molykote 111 or equivalent — never petroleum jelly, which degrades rubber). Reinstall and hand-tighten plus a quarter turn with the wrench. Over-tightening is a common cause of leaks because it deforms the O-ring.
If lubricating doesn't solve the leak, replace the O-ring. They're $3-8 depending on size. I keep spares on the truck because this is such a common call.
Less commonly, the housing itself might be cracked. Pressure cycling, UV exposure, or chemical attack can weaken plastic housings over time. Look carefully for hairline cracks, especially around the threads and the sump bottom. Cracked housings must be replaced entirely.
My whole house filter water tastes like chlorine again even though I just changed the filter. What's wrong?
Several possibilities:
Wrong filter type. Not all carbon filters are equal. Standard granular activated carbon (GAC) handles chlorine fine but struggles with chloramines, which many Florida municipalities now use. If your city switched to chloramine disinfection, you need catalytic carbon or a carbon block rated for chloramines.
Filter installed backward. Many filters have flow direction arrows. Installing backward reduces efficiency significantly. Check the arrow and ensure water flows in the correct direction.
Bypass valve open. If your system has a bypass, even partial opening routes unfiltered water into your home. Make sure the bypass is fully closed during normal operation.
Carbon exhausted before expected. Higher chlorine levels, higher water usage, or warmer water temperatures all accelerate carbon exhaustion. Test your water's chlorine level before and after the filter to confirm the carbon is actually working.
How do I know if my filter housing is cracked versus just needing a new O-ring?
Remove the housing completely, empty it, and dry it thoroughly. Inspect under good light, looking for:
Crazing — fine network of surface cracks that indicate UV or chemical damage
Discoloration — yellowing or cloudiness in clear housings suggests degradation
Flexibility changes — squeeze the housing gently; if it feels softer or more flexible than when new, the plastic is breaking down
Visible cracks — especially around threads, the O-ring groove, and stress points
If you find any of these, replace the housing. A $40-75 housing replacement is cheap insurance against a catastrophic failure that floods your utility area.
REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEMS
Why is my RO water flow so slow?
Slow RO flow is the most common complaint I hear. The culprit is usually one of these:
Clogged pre-filters. The sediment and carbon filters before the membrane protect it from contamination. When they clog, less water reaches the membrane. Check when you last changed them — if it's been more than 6-12 months, start there.
Exhausted membrane. RO membranes typically last 2-5 years depending on feed water quality and pre-filter maintenance. As membranes age, their production rate drops. A membrane rated for 50 gallons per day might only produce 25 when it's near end of life.
Low feed water pressure. RO systems need at least 40 PSI to function properly; 60 PSI is optimal. Florida well systems sometimes run lower pressure, and municipal pressure can drop during peak usage. A booster pump (Aquatec makes good ones) solves low-pressure problems.
Storage tank issues. The bladder inside the tank can lose its air charge or rupture. Test tank pressure with a tire gauge at the Schrader valve (usually on the bottom) when the tank is empty. Should read 5-8 PSI. If you can't maintain pressure, the bladder is failed and the tank needs replacement.
Kinked tubing. The 1/4" tubing connecting RO components can kink easily, especially if the system was pushed back under the sink. Follow all tubing runs looking for pinch points.
My RO water tastes bad or smells funny. What causes this?
Bacterial growth. If the system sits unused for several days, bacteria can colonize the tank and tubing. Drain the tank completely and run several tankfuls to drain before drinking. If the problem persists, the system needs sanitization — flush with a diluted chlorine solution following manufacturer instructions.
Exhausted post-filter. The final carbon filter (stage 4 or 5) polishes taste. When exhausted, it can actually harbor bacteria and contribute off-flavors. Replace it at least annually.
Old water in tank. RO tanks should be cycled regularly. If you only use a glass or two daily, the water sits for days. Consider a smaller tank or use more RO water for cooking to improve turnover.
Membrane damage. Chlorine destroys RO membranes. If pre-filters weren't maintained and chlorine reached the membrane, it can develop leaks that allow unfiltered water to mix with product water. TDS creep — where TDS spikes higher than normal after the system has been sitting — indicates membrane seal issues.
Why does my RO system run continuously to drain?
An RO system that won't shut off wastes enormous amounts of water and stresses the membrane. Common causes:
Failed auto shut-off valve (ASO). This valve senses tank pressure and stops production when the tank is full. When it fails, the system keeps running. ASO valves cost $20-40 to replace.
Failed check valve. Check valves prevent backflow. When they fail, water can drain backward from the tank, depressurizing it and triggering more production. Systems often have multiple check valves; any of them can fail.
Low tank pressure. If the tank bladder can't hold air pressure, the ASO never sees enough back-pressure to shut off. Test tank pressure as described above.
Incorrect flow restrictor. The flow restrictor controls the ratio of product water to drain water. If someone installed the wrong size during a previous repair, the system may never reach the pressure needed to trigger shut-off.
How do I know when my RO membrane needs replacement?
Test TDS (total dissolved solids) of your feed water and product water. A healthy membrane removes 90-98% of TDS. If your tap water is 300 TDS and your RO water tests at 15-30 TDS, the membrane is working fine. If RO water is testing at 60, 80, or 100+ TDS, the membrane is failing.
TDS creep — where the first glass after the system has sat idle shows higher TDS that then drops — is normal to some degree. But persistent high TDS throughout use indicates membrane problems.
Other signs: reduced production rate (taking much longer to fill the tank), and visible membrane degradation if you pull it for inspection.
My RO faucet drips after I turn it off. Is that normal?
A brief drip (few seconds) as tank pressure equalizes is normal. Continuous dripping indicates:
Worn faucet seals. RO faucets have internal seals that wear with use. Some faucets have replaceable seal kits; others require complete faucet replacement.
Debris in faucet. Small particles can prevent the valve from sealing completely. Disassemble the faucet (if possible) and clean internal components, or replace the faucet.
Air gap faucet issues. If you have an air gap faucet (the larger kind with the separate hole for drain overflow), the air gap itself can clog with debris, causing water to back up and leak from the air gap hole. Clean the air gap passages.
Can I clean and reuse RO filters instead of replacing them?
No. RO pre-filters (sediment and carbon) cannot be effectively cleaned. The carbon's adsorption capacity is chemically exhausted even if you could wash sediment off the surface. Attempting to clean and reuse filters provides false security while allowing contaminants through.
The RO membrane can sometimes be cleaned with specialized chemical solutions if it's fouled (not exhausted), but this is rarely practical for residential systems. The chemicals cost nearly as much as a new membrane, and results are inconsistent.
WATER SOFTENERS
My water feels hard even though my softener is full of salt. What's wrong?
This is frustrating because everything looks right but the system isn't working. Here's the diagnostic sequence I follow:
Check for salt bridges. A salt bridge is a hard crust that forms across the top of the salt, creating a hollow space underneath. The salt level looks fine, but there's no salt contacting the water to create brine. Push a broom handle down through the salt — if it breaks through a crust and drops suddenly, you found a bridge. Break it up and remove the chunks.
Check for salt mushing. Salt mush is dissolved salt that recrystallizes into sludge at the bottom of the tank. This blocks the brine pickup tube and prevents proper regeneration. Requires draining the tank, removing the sludge, and starting with fresh salt.
Verify bypass valve is closed. Even partial bypass opening routes hard water around the softener. Make sure both handles or the single lever is fully in "service" position.
Check the brine tank water level. During regeneration, water should fill the brine tank to dissolve salt, then get sucked out. If there's no water (dry tank mode is normal between regenerations on some units) or too much water (system isn't drawing brine), the regeneration cycle isn't completing properly.
Inspect the injector and screen. The injector creates suction to draw brine into the resin tank. Sediment can clog the injector screen, preventing brine draw. This requires disassembly and cleaning.
Test the resin. Resin beads last 7-15 years depending on water chemistry. Chlorine and iron accelerate degradation. If you're seeing yellow or brown particles in your water, the resin is breaking down and needs replacement.
Why is there so much water in my brine tank?
Normal water level in a brine tank during the fill/rest cycle is typically 6-12 inches, depending on the system. If water is higher than normal or the tank is overflowing:
Stuck float. The brine tank float controls water level during the fill cycle. If it sticks in the down position, water keeps filling. Check that the float moves freely up and down.
Clogged drain line. If water can't drain fast enough during regeneration, it backs up into the brine tank. Check for kinks or blockages in the drain line.
Clogged injector. A partially clogged injector draws water in but can't create enough suction to remove it all during brine draw. Clean the injector and screen.
Timer or control valve issue. If the control valve isn't cycling properly through regeneration phases, water can accumulate. This might require professional diagnosis.
My softener is using way more salt than usual. Why?
Salt bridge that broke. If a bridge was secretly preventing regeneration for weeks, then finally collapsed, the system may run multiple catch-up regenerations, using extra salt.
Increased water usage. More people in the house, visitors staying over, or a hidden leak somewhere means more water through the softener and more frequent regenerations.
Incorrect settings. If someone adjusted the hardness setting or regeneration frequency, the system might be regenerating more than necessary. Check settings against your actual water hardness.
Internal leak in valve. A worn seal in the control valve can allow water to continuously trickle through the system, triggering unnecessary regenerations. Listen for running water sounds when no fixtures are in use.
Stuck in regeneration. If the system gets stuck in a regeneration cycle, it continuously uses salt. A manual advance or reset of the control head can resolve this.
How often should a water softener regenerate?
This depends on your water hardness, household size, and resin tank capacity. A properly sized softener typically regenerates every 3-7 days.
More frequent regeneration isn't necessarily a problem — demand-initiated regeneration (DIR) systems trigger based on actual water usage, which is efficient. But if regeneration frequency has increased without increased usage, something may be wrong with the system.
Less frequent regeneration can indicate salt supply issues (bridge or mush), control valve problems, or settings that don't match your water hardness.
There are particles in my soft water. What are they?
Resin beads. If you see small amber or brown spheres (about the size of coarse sand), the riser tube screen inside the tank is broken, allowing resin to escape. This requires draining the tank, replacing the riser tube and screen, and refilling with new resin — a significant repair.
Resin fragments. Broken resin pieces indicate the resin is degrading. Chlorine attack is the most common cause in municipal water areas. The resin needs replacement.
Salt particles. If you see white crystite particles, salt is being carried over from the brine tank. This can indicate excessive salt levels, incorrect settings, or issues with the brine draw cycle.
My water has a salty taste. What's causing this?
Properly functioning softeners don't make water taste salty, even though they add sodium. The amount of sodium added is minimal — roughly equivalent to drinking two slices of white bread per gallon.
If you taste salt:
Incomplete rinse cycle. The final phase of regeneration rinses excess brine from the resin. If this cycle is cut short (timer issue, manual interruption), concentrated brine remains in the tank and enters your water.
Brine carry-over. If brine draw pulls more than intended, excess salt enters the resin tank. Usually caused by settings or control valve issues.
Salt in the wrong place. Make sure salt is only in the brine tank, not accidentally added to the resin tank.
When should I replace my water softener resin?
Resin typically lasts 10-15 years, but Florida conditions can shorten that significantly. High iron content, high chlorine levels, and very hard water all accelerate resin degradation.
Signs you need new resin:
Persistent hard water despite proper salt levels and settings
Resin beads or fragments in water
Significant decline in treatment capacity (regenerating much more frequently)
Resin older than 10 years with declining performance
Resin replacement costs $200-450 for a typical residential system including labor. Compare that to the cost of a new softener ($1,500-3,000+) to decide whether replacement makes economic sense for an older unit.
UV STERILIZATION SYSTEMS
How do I know if my UV light is still working?
The visible purple glow you see through the sight port means the lamp is producing light, but that light may not be germicidal. UV-C wavelength (the bacteria-killing range at 254nm) diminishes over time while visible light continues. This is why UV lamps must be replaced annually even when they're still glowing.
Systems with UV intensity monitors (Viqua D4, E4 Plus, Trojan UVMax premium models) display actual germicidal output. When intensity drops below safe thresholds, the system alarms. Take these warnings seriously — a lamp producing visible light but inadequate UV-C provides zero protection.
For systems without monitors, stick to the replacement schedule religiously. There's no way to visually confirm germicidal effectiveness.
My UV alarm is going off. What does it mean?
Different alarms mean different things:
Lamp failure alarm: The lamp isn't lighting at all. Check power connections, then try a new lamp. If a new lamp doesn't light, the ballast may be failed.
Low UV intensity alarm: The lamp is working but output is below safe levels. Replace the lamp. If a new lamp doesn't resolve it, the quartz sleeve may be dirty or the sensor may be failing.
Flow alarm: Water flow is outside designed parameters. High flow reduces contact time and disinfection effectiveness. Low or no flow can cause the lamp to overheat.
Lamp life alarm: The timer has counted down to replacement interval. Replace the lamp even if other readings seem fine.
How do I clean the quartz sleeve?
The quartz sleeve separates the UV lamp from water flow. Minerals and biofilm accumulate on the outside surface, reducing UV transmission. Clean it at every lamp change, minimum annually, more often if you have hard water.
Cleaning procedure:
Turn off water supply to the UV system
Open a downstream faucet to relieve pressure
Unplug the power supply
Allow the lamp to cool for 5-10 minutes
Remove the end cap or safety cover
Disconnect the lamp connector
Wearing clean gloves (oils from skin damage quartz), remove the lamp and sleeve assembly
Separate the lamp from the sleeve
Wipe the sleeve with a soft cloth soaked in CLR, white vinegar, or citric acid solution
Rinse thoroughly with clean water
Dry completely before reassembly
Replace the O-rings with new ones (recommended every time)
Apply silicone lubricant to O-rings
Reinstall the sleeve and lamp
Verify proper seating and connections
Restore water flow and check for leaks
Never use abrasive materials that can scratch quartz. Scratches reduce UV transmission and may require sleeve replacement.
When should I replace the quartz sleeve?
Replace the quartz sleeve every 2-3 years, or sooner if:
Cleaning no longer removes cloudiness or deposits
Visible scratches or etching are present
Cracks or chips appear (replace immediately — cracks can allow water to contact the lamp)
UV intensity readings remain low even with a new lamp
Sleeve replacement costs $45-85 depending on the system model.
My UV system is leaking. Where's the water coming from?
Most UV leaks occur at the O-ring seals where the quartz sleeve enters the chamber. These seals degrade over time and with repeated disassembly.
Fix: Remove the sleeve, inspect O-rings, replace with new ones, and apply silicone lubricant before reinstalling. Make sure the sleeve is properly seated and the retaining nut or gland is snug (not over-tightened, which can crack the quartz).
If the leak is from the chamber body itself (cracked housing or failed weld), the entire UV unit may need replacement.
The UV lamp won't turn on even with a new bulb. What's wrong?
Check the power supply. Is the outlet working? Is the cord plugged in securely? Some UV systems have inline fuses — check if blown.
Check the lamp connection. The lamp pins must seat properly in the connector. Misalignment or corrosion can prevent electrical contact.
Ballast failure. The ballast provides the high-voltage start and operating power for UV lamps. Ballasts can fail from age, moisture exposure, or power surges. Replacement ballasts run $100-200 depending on the model.
Moisture damage. Water intrusion kills UV electronics. If there's any sign of moisture in the lamp compartment or around the ballast, inspect thoroughly for the source. A cracked quartz sleeve or failed O-ring can allow water to enter areas that should be dry.
O-RINGS, SEALS, AND GASKETS
How often should O-rings be replaced?
In Florida's conditions, I recommend inspecting O-rings every time you open a filter housing and replacing them every 2-3 years proactively, even if they look okay. Rubber degrades from heat, humidity, chlorine exposure, and repeated compression. An O-ring that looks fine can fail days after inspection.
Some locations require more frequent replacement:
Whole house housings: Every 2-3 years or at any sign of leaking
RO filter housings: Every 2-3 years or whenever you notice any seeping
UV systems: Replace O-rings every time you remove the quartz sleeve
Softener control valves: Professional service interval, typically every 5-7 years
What type of O-ring lubricant should I use?
Use only food-grade silicone lubricant rated for potable water systems. Dow Corning Molykote 111 is the industry standard — NSF certified and won't degrade rubber or plastics.
Never use:
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) — breaks down rubber and plastic
WD-40 — petroleum-based, degrades seals
Motor oil or grease — contaminates water, damages seals
Cooking oil — can support bacterial growth
Apply a thin coating to the O-ring, not a thick glob. You want lubrication, not a layer that prevents proper sealing.
My filter housing won't tighten properly. What's wrong?
Cross-threading. If the housing doesn't thread smoothly by hand for the first few turns, stop. Back out and restart. Forcing it damages threads permanently.
Debris in threads. Sand, sediment, or old seal material can prevent proper threading. Clean both the housing sump threads and cap threads with a brush.
Deformed O-ring. A twisted or pinched O-ring prevents the housing from seating properly. Remove, inspect, and reinstall the O-ring correctly in its groove.
Cracked or warped housing. Age, heat, or chemical exposure can warp plastic housings. If threads look damaged or the housing appears warped, replace it.
Where can I find replacement O-rings for my system?
Standard sizes: Pentek Big Blue, Slim Line, and many other brands use industry-standard O-ring sizes. These are available at hardware stores, Amazon, or filtration supply houses. Measure the inside diameter of your current O-ring and match it.
Proprietary sizes: Some manufacturers (Culligan, Kinetico, EcoWater) use non-standard sizes that require ordering directly from the manufacturer or authorized dealers.
O-ring kits: Many manufacturers offer rebuild kits that include all O-rings for a specific system (like iSpring ORF kit for their RO systems). Buying kits is often cheaper than individual O-rings.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES
What's a realistic maintenance schedule for a complete home water treatment system?
For a typical South Florida home with whole house filtration, softener, and RO:
Monthly:
Check salt level in softener brine tank
Visual check of whole house filter pressure (if gauge installed)
Listen for unusual sounds during softener regeneration
Every 3-6 months:
Change whole house sediment pre-filter
Inspect O-rings on whole house housings
Check RO tank pressure (when tank is empty)
Every 6-12 months:
Change whole house carbon filter
Change RO pre-filters (sediment and carbon)
Change RO post-filter
Clean brine tank (if buildup visible)
Test water hardness to verify softener function
Annually:
Replace UV lamp
Clean UV quartz sleeve
Replace UV O-rings
Change RO membrane (or test and change as needed)
Professional inspection of softener valve (if not DIY comfortable)
Every 2-3 years:
Replace UV quartz sleeve
Replace all O-rings proactively
Professional softener service (valve rebuild if needed)
Every 5-10 years:
Replace whole house filter housing (if showing wear)
Evaluate softener resin condition
Replace RO tank (if bladder issues)
Consider whole house tank media replacement
How do I remember all this maintenance?
Set calendar reminders on your phone — digital calendars make it easy to set recurring annual or semi-annual alerts. I give customers laminated cards with their installation date and recommended schedules specific to their system.
Some modern systems have built-in reminders. Smart softeners track regeneration cycles and alert when maintenance is due. UV systems have lamp countdown timers.
For customers who want to completely forget about it, we offer maintenance plans with automatic scheduling. A tech shows up at the right intervals, performs all maintenance, and documents everything. It costs more than DIY but saves time and ensures nothing gets forgotten.
WHEN TO CALL A PROFESSIONAL
What repairs can I safely do myself?
Most filter and lamp replacements are DIY-friendly with basic tools and reasonable mechanical comfort:
Changing cartridge filters (whole house, RO pre-filters, post-filters)
Replacing UV lamps
Cleaning UV quartz sleeves
Replacing O-rings on accessible housings
Breaking up salt bridges
Basic troubleshooting (checking bypass valves, verifying power)
What requires professional service?
Softener valve rebuilds (Fleck, Clack internal components)
Softener resin replacement
Tank media replacement (requires specific loading procedures)
UV ballast replacement (electrical work, compatibility issues)
Any repair you're not confident about
Problems that persist after basic troubleshooting
How do I know if my system is worth repairing vs. replacing?
Repair makes sense when:
System is less than 10 years old
Repair cost is less than 50% of replacement cost
Only one or two components are failing
System has been well-maintained
Replacement makes sense when:
System is over 15 years old
Multiple components are failing
Repair cost approaches replacement cost
Technology has improved significantly (especially for softeners and UV)
System was undersized or improperly matched to your water
For borderline cases, I give customers honest assessments. A 12-year-old softener with a failed timer motor is probably worth a $75 motor replacement. That same softener with failed resin, worn valve seals, and a cracked brine tank? Buy new.
EMERGENCY SITUATIONS
My filter system is flooding. What do I do first?
Turn off the water supply to the system immediately. Most systems have a dedicated shutoff valve. If not, use the main house shutoff.
Turn off power to any electrical components (UV, softener, booster pump).
Contain the water with towels, buckets, or a wet-vac.
Identify the source once water is controlled — cracked housing, blown O-ring, failed tank, etc.
Do not restore water until the failure is identified and corrected.
Call for help if you can't identify or fix the problem.
My well water suddenly turned brown or smells bad. What happened?
Don't drink or cook with the water until you know what's happening.
Sudden changes usually indicate:
Disturbance of the well: Recent pump work, pressure tank issues, or even very heavy rain can stir up sediment that settled over years.
Casing failure: If well casing is cracked or corroded, surface water can infiltrate bringing contaminants.
Aquifer changes: Nearby construction, new wells, or changes in water table can alter what's flowing into your well.
Treatment system failure: If your iron filter or softener fails, you suddenly see untreated water that was always there.
Contamination event: Worst case — something got into your well. This requires testing and potentially professional remediation.
Run water for 10-15 minutes to see if it clears. If not, or if you have any health concerns, get professional water testing before resuming use.
My water pressure dropped throughout the whole house suddenly. What's happening?
Municipal supply issue: Check with neighbors. If they're affected too, it's a water main problem — wait for utility to fix.
Pressure tank failure (well systems): If your well pump cycles rapidly (short-cycling), the pressure tank may have lost its air charge or the bladder failed.
Whole house filter clogged: A filter can clog rapidly if something unusual enters your water (like sediment after well work or main break). Check your pressure gauge before and after the filter.
Pipe break or major leak: A burst pipe or stuck irrigation valve can drain pressure. Check for wet spots, listen for running water, and check the water meter for continuous flow when nothing is running.
QUESTIONS ABOUT SPECIFIC BRANDS
Are name-brand filters worth the extra money?
It depends on the application. For sediment filters, generic alternatives often perform identically to name brands at lower cost. For carbon filters, quality varies more — cheap carbon may be less effective or exhaust faster.
For RO membranes, I generally recommend sticking with reputable brands (Dow/Filmtec, Hydranautics, or the original manufacturer's membrane). Membrane quality directly affects water purity and lifespan.
For UV lamps, use genuine replacement lamps from the system manufacturer. Generic lamps may not match the wavelength or output specifications, potentially leaving your water under-treated while appearing to work fine.
I have a Kinetico/Culligan/RainSoft system. Can any technician service it?
These are dealer-installed systems with some proprietary components. While basic maintenance (salt, pre-filters) is universal, internal repairs often require specific knowledge and parts.
Kinetico systems are non-electric with kinetic-powered valves — they're clever but require Kinetico-trained technicians for valve work. Parts are available through dealers but not typical plumbing suppliers.
Culligan and RainSoft vary by model. Some use standard Fleck or Clack components that any water treatment professional can service. Others use proprietary valves that require dealer service.
I service all brands for basic maintenance and can often diagnose problems even on proprietary systems. For major repairs, I'll be honest about whether you need to call the original dealer.
My system uses filters/parts I can't find anywhere. Help!
Some older or discontinued systems have limited parts availability. Options:
Contact the manufacturer directly. Even discontinued brands sometimes maintain parts inventory.
Check specialty suppliers. Companies like FiltersFast, WaterFiltersFast, and manufacturer-specific suppliers stock parts others don't carry.
Consider cross-compatibility. Many filters use standard sizes even if the brand name is unique. Measure your current filter and compare to standard dimensions.
Adapt or upgrade. Sometimes it's more practical to replace the housing or entire system with a current model than to hunt for obsolete parts.
FINAL THOUGHTS
Water treatment systems aren't complicated, but they do require attention. The most expensive repairs I see always stem from neglected maintenance — the $45 pre-filter that wasn't changed for two years and led to $800 in membrane and valve repairs.
Build a relationship with a professional who knows your system and your water. Regular maintenance visits catch problems early when they're cheap to fix. And when something does go wrong, you have someone who already knows your setup.
If you're in South Florida and have questions this FAQ didn't answer, or if you need hands-on help with your system, give us a call at 561-352-9989. We service every brand covered here and plenty more.
Stay filtered, South Florida.
About the Author
Jared Beviano is the owner of Water Wizards Filtration, serving Palm Beach County and South Florida since 2013. Licensed water treatment specialist with certifications in residential and commercial filtration systems.
