What to Expect During Water Filtration System Installation: A Complete Homeowner's Guide
By Jared Beviano | Water Wizards Filtration
Last Tuesday, I was finishing up an installation in Wellington when the homeowner—a retired engineer named Dave—asked me something that made me realize I should probably write this down.
"Jared, I wish someone had told me what was actually going to happen today. I spent all morning worrying about whether you'd need to tear up my garage floor."
He'd been anxious about the whole thing for weeks. Turns out his neighbor had a bad experience with another company—something about unexpected plumbing modifications and a two-day timeline turning into four. I get it. When someone says they're going to cut into your main water line, your mind naturally goes to worst-case scenarios.
So here's everything you need to know about what actually happens during a water filtration system installation. I'm going to walk you through the entire process the same way I explained it to Dave—from the moment we pull up in your driveway to when you're tasting that first glass of filtered water.
Before Installation Day: What You Should Already Know
Okay, let me back up a second. By the time installation day arrives, a few things should have already happened. If they haven't, that's actually a red flag about whoever you're working with.
The Water Test
Someone should have tested your water. Not a quick dip-strip test from Home Depot—I mean an actual analysis. At minimum, you should know your hardness levels, chlorine or chloramine concentration, TDS (total dissolved solids), and pH. If you're in an older home in Coral Gables or parts of Fort Lauderdale, you need lead testing. Near the airports? PFAS panel. Well water out west in Loxahatchee or The Acreage? Add bacteria, nitrates, iron, and sulfur to that list.
I've seen too many homeowners end up with systems that don't actually address their problems because nobody bothered testing first. A family in Boynton Beach called me last year after another company sold them an expensive carbon filtration system. Their issue? Well water with iron at 3.2 ppm. Carbon doesn't touch iron. They basically paid $2,400 for equipment that couldn't solve their staining problem.
The Site Assessment
Before we schedule anything, we need to see where your main water line enters the house. This sounds obvious, but it matters more than you'd think.
In most South Florida homes, the main line comes in through the garage—usually along a side wall. That's ideal. Easy access, good space for equipment, convenient drain nearby for softeners or backwashing systems. But I've worked in Boca condos where the line comes in through a utility closet barely big enough to stand in. I've seen Palm Beach estate homes where the main line is in some weird mechanical room accessible only through the back yard. Once, in a Delray Beach house from the 1950s, the main came up through the laundry room floor.
Each of these situations requires different planning. That's why a site visit before installation isn't optional—it's essential.
The Quote
You should have a written quote that spells out exactly what equipment you're getting, what the installation includes, and what the total price is. No surprises. If someone gives you a "ballpark" and says they'll firm it up on installation day, find someone else. That's how people end up paying an extra $800 for "unexpected complications."
Installation Day: The Morning Of
Alright, installation day. Here's what to expect from the moment we arrive.
Arrival and Setup (15-30 minutes)
We show up in a work van—not a fancy wrapped truck with slick marketing, just a practical vehicle loaded with equipment and tools. First thing we do is lay down drop cloths. Garage floors get scuffed, walls get bumped, and we're going to be cutting pipes, so there's going to be some water. Drop cloths protect your floors and make cleanup easier.
Then we unload everything and verify we've got the right equipment for your specific installation. I double-check serial numbers against the work order. Once, early in my career, I showed up at a house in Jupiter with the wrong size softener tank. Never again. Now I verify everything before we even cut a single pipe.
Shutting Off Your Water (5 minutes)
This is the part that makes people nervous. Yes, we have to turn off your water. For a standard whole-house installation, you'll be without water for about 2-3 hours total—though not continuously. There are breaks where you'll have limited water access.
Before we shut anything off, I always tell homeowners to fill a few buckets or containers with water. That way you can flush toilets or wash hands during the installation if needed. It's a small thing, but it makes a big difference in keeping your day functional.
We close the main shutoff valve—usually located at your water meter near the street, or there's sometimes a secondary shutoff where the line enters your house. Then we open a low-point faucet somewhere in the house to drain residual pressure. There's going to be some water. It's unavoidable. That's what the drop cloths are for.
The Actual Installation Process
Now for the part you're probably most curious about: what exactly do we do when we're installing a water filtration system?
Cutting Into the Main Line (30-45 minutes)
This sounds more dramatic than it is. We're making two cuts—one where water enters the filtration equipment and one where it exits back into your home's plumbing. The space between those cuts is where your new equipment goes.
In South Florida, most main lines are either copper (in older homes) or CPVC/PEX (in newer construction). Copper requires soldering—you'll hear the torch and might smell flux, but it's completely normal and safe. CPVC uses glue connections. PEX uses crimp or push-fit fittings. Each material has its quirks, but we work with all of them daily.
I always install bypass valves at this stage. These are critical. They let you isolate the filtration equipment for maintenance or repairs without shutting off water to your entire house. Any installer who skips bypass valves is cutting corners you'll regret later.
Mounting and Positioning Equipment (30-60 minutes)
Here's where the time can vary a lot depending on what you're getting installed.
A simple whole-house carbon filter? We mount a bracket on the wall, hang the housing, connect the inlet and outlet—done in 30 minutes or so.
A complete system with sediment filter, carbon filtration, and water softener? Now we're talking about multiple tanks, a brine tank for salt, control valves that need programming, and possibly a drain line running to a nearby floor drain or utility sink. That's closer to 60-90 minutes of mounting and positioning work.
The goal is to position everything logically. Water should flow through the stages in the right order—sediment first (to protect downstream equipment), then softener or carbon depending on your specific setup. I also think about future maintenance. Is there room to change filters without dismounting anything? Can I access the control valve without standing on my head? That attention to detail matters in the long run.
Connecting Electrical and Drain Lines (15-30 minutes)
Not every system needs power. A basic carbon filter works entirely on water pressure—no electricity required. But if you're getting a softener with an electronic control valve, UV sterilization, or certain smart monitoring systems, we need an outlet nearby.
Most garages have accessible outlets, and we can usually make that work. In rare cases where there's no power nearby, we might recommend having an electrician add an outlet before or after our installation.
Water softeners also need a drain line for the regeneration process. During regeneration—usually overnight—the softener flushes accumulated minerals down the drain. We run a line from the softener to a floor drain, utility sink, or exterior discharge point (if code allows). This drain line needs to be properly air-gapped to prevent backflow. It's a plumbing code requirement that protects your water supply.
Programming and Configuration (15-30 minutes)
Softeners and some advanced filtration systems have electronic control heads that need to be programmed for your specific situation.
We set the current time, hardness level (based on your water test), household size and estimated water usage, regeneration schedule (typically 2-4 AM when you're unlikely to need water), and any other system-specific parameters.
Getting these settings right matters. If the softener regenerates too infrequently, you'll run out of soft water before the next regeneration. Too frequently, and you waste salt and water. I adjust based on your family's actual usage patterns, not just factory defaults.
Under-Sink RO System Installation
A lot of South Florida homeowners combine a whole-house system with an under-sink reverse osmosis unit for drinking water. If that's your setup, here's what the RO installation involves.
Under the Sink (45-60 minutes)
RO systems live under your kitchen sink, which means we're working in a confined space. We connect to the cold water supply line, install a dedicated faucet (usually mounted on your sink deck or countertop), run a drain line to your sink's drain pipe, and mount the storage tank and filtration unit.
The dedicated faucet is where most of the visible work happens. In a stone countertop, drilling a new hole is possible but adds time and cost—we usually try to use an existing opening like a sprayer hole or soap dispenser spot if your sink has one. Stainless steel sinks are easier to drill if a new hole is needed.
The drain connection involves something called a "drain saddle"—a small clamp that attaches to your existing drain pipe and diverts RO wastewater into it. This connection needs to be above the trap to prevent contamination. It's a detail some installers get wrong, and it's actually a health code requirement.
Initial Flush (30-45 minutes wait time)
RO membranes ship with a preservative that needs to be flushed out before use. After installation, we turn on the system and let it fill and drain a couple of tanks. This is usually happening while we're finishing other tasks or testing the whole-house system, so it doesn't necessarily add time—but I mention it because you shouldn't drink the water from a brand-new RO system immediately. Give it that initial flush first.
Testing and Quality Assurance
Once everything's connected, we don't just pack up and leave. There's a whole testing phase that's honestly one of the most important parts of the installation.
Pressure Testing (10-15 minutes)
We slowly turn the water back on and check every single connection for leaks. Even a tiny drip now becomes a big problem later when no one's watching. I run water through the system at full pressure while visually inspecting every fitting, joint, and seal.
We also check your home's water pressure after installation. A properly sized system should cause minimal pressure drop. If you're suddenly getting low pressure at your farthest bathroom, something's wrong—either the system is undersized or there's a restriction somewhere. We don't leave until the pressure is right throughout the house.
Water Quality Verification (10-15 minutes)
I test the water coming out of your taps after installation to confirm the system is actually working. For a softener, that means checking hardness at 0 or near 0 grains. For carbon filtration, we test for chlorine removal. For RO systems, we check TDS reduction.
This is where you get to see the difference. When a homeowner sees their water go from 220 ppm hardness to 0, or their chlorine drop from 3.5 ppm to undetectable—that moment makes all the disruption worth it. There was a couple in Boca last month who'd been buying bottled water for years. When they tasted their first glass from the new RO faucet, the wife actually teared up a little. "This is better than the water I grew up drinking," she said. That's why we do this.
How Long Does the Whole Thing Take?
Here's a realistic breakdown of installation times for different system types.
Basic Whole-House Carbon Filter
Installation time: 2-3 hours. This is the simplest whole-house option—cutting in, mounting the housing, connecting plumbing, testing. No electrical, no drain lines.
Whole-House Carbon + Water Softener
Installation time: 3-4 hours. Adding a softener means a bigger footprint, drain line installation, electrical connection, and programming. Still a single-day job, but plan on half a day minimum.
Comprehensive System (Sediment + Carbon + Softener + RO)
Installation time: 5-6 hours. This is the full setup—everything protecting every drop of water in your home. We're usually there most of the day, but you're getting complete protection from South Florida's challenging water quality.
Well Water Systems
Installation time: 5-7 hours. Well water often requires additional stages—iron removal, UV sterilization, specialized media for sulfur—which means more equipment and more plumbing connections. These are the most complex installations we do.
Under-Sink RO Only
Installation time: 1-2 hours. If you're just adding an RO system without whole-house equipment, it's the quickest installation. Great for renters, apartments, or people who want to start with drinking water protection and add more later.
What About Permits and Inspections?
This is something I should address because it varies across South Florida.
Some municipalities require permits for water treatment equipment installation—particularly in unincorporated Palm Beach County, parts of Miami-Dade, and certain Broward cities. The permit cost is usually $50-200, and it protects you by ensuring the work meets local plumbing codes.
Honestly? Many installers skip permits to save time and money—and homeowners often don't know the difference. But if you ever sell your home and the buyer's inspector notices water treatment equipment without permits, it can become a problem. We handle permits when required, and we're transparent about when they're needed.
If a permit is required, there's usually an inspection within a week or two after installation. An inspector comes out, verifies the work meets code, and signs off. Takes about 15 minutes and you'll need to be home (or someone over 18 needs to be present).
After Installation: What Happens Now?
The First 24-48 Hours
I always tell homeowners to keep an eye on things for the first day or two after installation. Check around the equipment for any signs of moisture. Look at the connections. If you see even a small drip, call us immediately—it's much easier to tighten a fitting than to repair water damage.
Your water might look a little cloudy or have tiny air bubbles for the first few hours—that's normal. Air gets into the system during installation and works its way out. It should clear up within a day.
If you have a softener, the first regeneration cycle will happen based on however we programmed it—usually that first night or the next night. You might hear water running during regeneration, which is totally normal. It lasts about 90 minutes and happens in the middle of the night to minimize inconvenience.
The Walkthrough
Before we leave, we do a complete walkthrough with you. I show you how to operate the bypass valves, what the normal readings look like on control heads, how to add salt to your softener, and where your replacement filters are located. I also leave you with documentation—maintenance schedule, warranty information, our contact info for questions.
I'm a big believer in homeowner education. The better you understand your system, the longer it'll last and the more value you'll get from it.
Ongoing Maintenance
No water treatment system is install-and-forget. Filters need replacing, softeners need salt, systems need occasional professional checkups. Here's a rough maintenance schedule:
Sediment filters: Replace every 3-6 months depending on sediment levels
Carbon filters: Replace every 6-12 months
Softener salt: Check monthly, add when below half-full
RO pre-filters: Replace every 6 months
RO membrane: Replace every 2-3 years
UV bulbs: Replace annually
We send maintenance reminders automatically, but honestly, a lot of homeowners just schedule us for annual filter replacements and let us handle it. That works too.
How to Prepare for Installation Day
Based on hundreds of installations, here's what makes the process smoother for everyone:
Clear the work area. If we're installing in your garage, make sure there's space around the main water line. Move boxes, storage items, anything that might be in the way. Expect us to need about a 6-foot by 4-foot work zone.
Fill some containers with water. You'll be without water for 2-3 hours during installation. Having a few buckets of water means you can flush toilets and wash hands if needed.
Plan for us to be there most of the morning or afternoon. Even a simple installation takes 3 hours with setup and testing. Complex systems take 5-6 hours. Don't schedule us an hour before you need to leave for something.
Keep pets secured. We'll be going in and out, sometimes leaving the garage door open. Dogs especially can be curious (or anxious) about strangers working in the house.
Someone 18 or older needs to be home. We need to access the main shutoff, test water at various taps, and do the final walkthrough with a decision-maker.
Know where your water meter is. Usually near the street with a blue or green lid. We need access to the main shutoff valve there.
What Can Go Wrong (And How We Handle It)
I'm going to be honest with you about potential complications. It's better you know these things upfront than be surprised.
Corroded or Damaged Pipes
Sometimes when we cut into an older main line, we discover the pipe is more deteriorated than expected. Corrosion, pinhole leaks that weren't visible before, galvanized pipe that's half clogged with scale. When that happens, we need to replace a section of pipe—which adds time and a little cost, but is obviously necessary. We don't charge extra for surprises we could have anticipated; we only charge extra for genuinely unexpected conditions that require additional materials.
Limited Space
Occasionally, the installation location is tighter than we'd like. Maybe there's limited clearance above the pipe, or the wall studs are exactly where we need to mount equipment. Professional installers adapt. We might need to adjust placement or use alternative mounting strategies, but we figure it out. In really challenging situations—rare, but it happens—we might recommend a different system configuration that fits the available space better.
No Nearby Drain
Water softeners need a drain for the regeneration cycle. In most garages, there's a floor drain or we can run a line to a utility sink. But I've seen installations where the nearest drain is 30 feet away. Longer drain runs are possible but add cost for additional tubing and labor. Sometimes we can use an exterior discharge—essentially a drain line that exits through the wall and drains outside—but local codes vary on this. It's something we identify during the site assessment so there are no surprises.
Low Water Pressure
If your incoming water pressure is already on the low side (below 40 PSI), adding filtration equipment can sometimes push it lower than is comfortable. We check incoming pressure before installation. If it's borderline, we might recommend a pressure booster pump or suggest a different system with less pressure drop. The solution depends on your specific situation, but we won't leave you with inadequate water pressure.
The Bottom Line
Water filtration system installation isn't complicated or scary when you know what to expect. At its core, we're connecting quality equipment to your main water line and making sure it works properly before we leave.
The homeowner I mentioned at the beginning—Dave in Wellington—ended up being thrilled with his installation. No floor tearing, no multi-day timeline, no hidden surprises. Just a professional team doing professional work. Four hours later, he had soft water throughout his house and pure drinking water at his kitchen sink. His wife immediately started a load of laundry "just to see if it felt different." (It did.)
If you're considering a water filtration system for your South Florida home, start with a water test. Know what you're dealing with. Then get a proper site assessment and written quote from someone who actually understands your specific water quality challenges and home configuration.
And when installation day comes? Fill some water buckets, clear a work space, and relax. You're about to join thousands of South Florida families who've discovered what their tap water can actually taste like when it's properly filtered.
Trust me—that first glass of clean, filtered water makes the whole process worth it.
Ready to Get Started?
Water Wizards offers free water testing and in-home consultations throughout Palm Beach, Broward, and Miami-Dade counties. We'll test your water, assess your installation location, and give you an honest recommendation based on what you actually need—not what we want to sell you.
Call us at 561-352-9989 or visit waterwizards.ai to schedule your free water test.
Water Wizards Filtration — Florida's Water Filtration Experts
Serving Delray Beach, Boca Raton, West Palm Beach, Jupiter, Wellington, Boynton Beach, Fort Lauderdale, Miami, and all of South Florida.
